Revithada (Greek Chickpea Stew)

Just as Türkiye surprised me with Zeytinyağlılar—an entire category of traditional dishes that happen to be plant-based—Greece introduced me to the culinary wonders of Nistisima. For periods of the year, but especially during the 40 days leading up to Easter, Greek Orthodox Christians turn to an almost entirely plant-based fasting diet—and much of the country follows suit. Tavernas, restaurants and home kitchens all churn out dish after dish of legumes, grains, vegetables and fresh herbs—accompanied, of course, by generous glugs of olive oil. It’s proof that sometimes “fasting” can feel a lot more like feasting.

Lent may have just come to an end this year, but for those who follow a plant-based diet year-round, Nistisima still has plenty to inspire the palate. In my upcoming book Naturally Vegan, I include a traditional lentil soup called Fakes, which happens to double up as a perfect guide for cooking lentils from scratch. But more recently, I stumbled upon a chickpea stew that was so creamy, so perfectly moreish, I instantly wanted to recreate it at home. The catch? It usually takes around 8 hours to cook… Before you self-eject, don’t worry—my version uses a quicker method but still stays true to the flavor-roots of Revithada.

On the island of Sifnos, this dish is the Sunday centrepiece, marking a two-day weekly ritual that begins on Saturday afternoon. For generations, housewives across the Greek island simmered it in clay pots (skepastaria), then brought it to the village oven to work its magic overnight. On Sunday morning, they’d return from church to collect their well-earned reward, just in time for lunch.

To speed things up at home, I blend some of the chickpeas, thickening the sauce and creating that creamy texture without the long wait. Inspired by variations of this stew from nearby island, the added freshness of lemon juice and the warm flavors of thyme create the kind of wholesome sauce that is best scooped up with a generous chunk of bread.

Though I have visited Greece, I have not yet set foot on Sifnos. This stew alone has made me plot my trip. The island may not have the celebrity status of Santorini or Mykonos, but often the quieter places tell the best stories—and serve the best food.

And now, on to the recipe. Here’s how you make it…

Revithada (Greek Chickpea Stew)

Active time: 35 minutes

Total time: 2 hours 30 minutes (or 1 hour 5 minutes with a pressure cooker)

Serves 4 if served with bread

Ingredients

• 320g dried chickpeas

• 2 tbsp salt (28g)

• 100ml extra virgin olive oil (90g), plus extra to serve

• 2 large red onions (400g)

• 3 large garlic cloves

• 10g sprigs of thyme

• 2 bay leaves

• 1/2 tsp freshly ground black pepper

• 1 lemon

• Flatbreads or crusty bread (to serve)

Method

Soak the chickpeas with 1 tablespoon (14g) of the salt in around 1 litre of water overnight, or for at least 8 hours.

The next day, pre-heat the oven to 160°C (140°C fan). Heat the olive oil in a casserole, then peel and roughly chop the onions and sauté in the oil until they begin to caramelise (10-12 minutes). Meanwhile, peel the garlic and pick the thyme leaves.

Drain and rinse the chickpeas and add them to the casserole followed by 800ml of water, the peeled garlic cloves, thyme leaves, bay leaves, black pepper and the zest of the lemon. Bring to a boil, then cover with a lid, transfer to the oven and cook for 1 1/2 hours. To use a pressure cooker, see notes below.

Remove the casserole from the oven. Discard the bay leaves, then transfer around 3 tablespoons of the chickpeas along with the cooked garlic cloves and a bit of the cooking liquid to a jug and use an immersion blender to blend it into a smooth purée. Add this back to the casserole (it will give the sauce a velvety texture), followed by 3 tablespoons (45ml) of lemon juice and the remaining 1 tablespoon (14g) of salt. Give it a stir, return to a boil on the stove, then cover again and transfer back to the oven for a final 10 minutes.

Remove from the oven and leave to rest for 5 minutes, then stir once more. The chickpeas should be tender, surrounded by a creamy sauce. Optionally, blend some more, if you like. Divide over plates, drizzle with extra olive oil and serve with bread of your choice.

Notes

To use a pressure cooker, follow the same steps, but add only 600ml of fresh water, along with the 1 tablespoon (14g) of salt. Cook for around 15 minutes, then continue with Step 4 without having to cook it for 10 minutes more.

I hope you’ll give Revithada a try. It’s such a beautiful dish that shines in its simplicity. Thanks for reading and I’ll see you next week.

Much love,Julius