My Journey to Ruby-Red Chili Oil

My first real taste of Chinese food came after I moved to London and hopped on the 254 to a small but mighty hole-in-the-wall restaurant. Far from the bustle of Chinatown, it was here that I experienced Chinese flavors like never before. Just across from the Emirates Stadium in Holloway, Xi’an Impression was once a well-kept secret. Now, many Londoners consider it worth the pilgrimage to an area that, aside from Arsenal matches, doesn’t have much else to draw in crowds. Trust me, it’s worth the ride, even on the 254.

Step inside, and you’re greeted with a menu that feels fresh and exciting. Flipping through its laminated pages is like peeking through a portal to another world. Welcome, my friend, to Xi’an. Here, you’ll find dishes you may have never heard of before–but look closer, and you’ll realize that many are traditionally vegan. How about a Black Fungus Salad of squishy wood ear mushrooms, coriander and chilies served in a sharp, black-vinegar-loaded dressing. Or Liang Pi Cold Skin Noodles, slick with chili oil, soy sauce and a generous splash of Chinkiang vinegar (a recurring favorite). And, of course, the crowd pleaser: Biang Biang Noodles, hand-pulled and named for the rhythmic slap they make against the cold metal counter as they’re stretched to perfection.

Biang Biang Noodles look as if they’ve been coated with a luscious amount of chili oil, but the process of making them is different. The freshly cooked noodles are served in a bowl and topped with the aromatics, including crushed chilies, before they are drizzled with plain, hot oil, coaxing out the flavors under a fanfare of sizzling sounds and fragrant aromas. It’s like witnessing chili oil being born right before your eyes. This is how I got introduced to Erjingtiao chilies—one of Sichuan’s most prized varieties. Deeply red, mildly spicy and rich with a slightly fruity aroma, Erjingtiao is the backbone of so many Chinese dishes, including those from Shaanxi (the province of which Xi’an is the capital). When you taste a dish like Biang Biang Noodles, it’s difficult to pinpoint what exactly makes it so damn delicious. But let me tell you, it’s those chilies.

And so, my journey began. Hooked by the aromas of these red fruits, I wanted to find a way to put them centre stage. Of course, it had to be Sichuan chili oil. In a tiny flat share in Paddington, I churned out batch after batch, desperately searching for the one recipe. I learned that Sichuan chili oil by itself is all about purity. That, unlike many store-bought versions made me believe, it is not about adding spices and aromatics to the sediment. Instead, these ingredients are only used to infuse the oil beforehand, giving it a deep flavor. It is then poured over the freshly toasted and crushed chilies, at different temperatures, to not only draw out the ruby red color, but also the right amount of aroma and heat.

Frustratingly, my tests came to a shrieking halt early on. Turns out, Erjingtiao chilies are surprisingly hard to find in the UK. And while I’ll admit to a moment of desperation that led me to order a batch straight from China, I eventually landed on a more accessible—but equally delicious—Sichuan variety: Facing Heaven. Named for the way they grow, pointing skyward, these chilies are slightly hotter than Erjingtiao but still do a firecracker job at crafting an aromatic jar of oil. Walk into a Chinese supermarket, grab a bag of dried chilies, and if they’re short, smooth, and slightly curved, you’re most likely holding Facing Heaven.

With that bump in the road behind me, I pushed on, testing batch after batch until I landed on a recipe I now use for anything that calls for a touch of red gold. It’s the one I’m sharing here, as true to tradition as my research and testing allowed me to. But I couldn’t shake the memory of those first bites at Xi’an Impression, the flavors still lingering in the back of my mind. So, at the end of the recipe, you’ll find a little note–a small break from tradition that flavors the sediment too. Think of it as Shaanxi street food in a jar.

Pre-order my cookbook Naturally Vegan

The launch day for my book is getting closer and I’m so excited for everyone who pre-ordered to finally start cooking from it. If you’re new here–hi and welcome! Let me give you a quick introduction to Naturally Vegan. Over the past three years, I’ve traveled far and wide, exploring and celebrating traditional plant-based dishes from all corners of the world. This book is the result–over 90 recipes that just happen to be plant-based, from more than 20 different cultures.

“Beautiful and inspiring. Julius celebrates the utter joy of good food” – Jamie Oliver“A mouth-watering culinary trip around the world” – Tim Spector

Pre-ordering a copy is a huge support, especially for a first-time author, because retailers look at pre-order numbers when deciding whether they sell the book or not. If you’ve enjoyed my recipes and stories, and if you’re excited about the book, I’d be so grateful for your support. You can pre-order your copy here.

Hope you enjoyed this week’s digest. See you next Friday!

Much love,Julius