How I Like to Cook Lentils

This week’s newsletter will take you on a trip to Türkiye, bringing a taste of the country to your kitchen with a classic “olive oil dish.” I’m also sharing one of my favorite staples: cooking lentils from scratch, properly. I’ll walk you through my go-to recipe, loaded with spicy harissa, plenty of garlic and a serious drizzle of extra virgin olive oil.

Zeytinyağlılar – Türkiye’s traditional olive oil dishes

It feels good to be writing again. Somewhere along the way, I forgot how much I missed it. But a quick scroll through my photos from the not too distant past brought it all back–so many stories, so many meals worth sharing. So what better way to start than with a quick trip down memory lane?

When I first visited Türkiye in 2023, I was on a mission to find traditionally vegan dishes.

If you’d told me before I travelled to Türkiye that there was an entire world of plant-based meals to discover, I would have been skeptical. This is the country hailed for kebabs at every turn, with meats sizzling on open grills and a culture that’s practically worshipping butter. Right?

Sure, all of that is there as well. But what surprised me was the often overlooked part of Turkish cuisine: here vegetables take center stage, slow-cooked in generous amounts of olive oil; aubergines are charred over hot coals until smoky and tender; and desserts balance sweet and savory flavors in ways I never saw coming, all without a drop of butter or meat stock. It taught me that our own bias often narrows our minds and our palates, especially when it comes to food from places we're not so familiar with.

After exploring Türkiye for my series Vegan Cultures, my perspective totally changed. Now, when people ask me where to find great plant-based Turkish food, I always point them to the many esnaf lokantaları (traditional tradesmen restaurants) or meyhane (taverns). These no-frills spots might be considered the Turkish version of Italy’s trattorias, but here they serve up simple, delicious food that often happens to be vegan.

You’ve got wild herb dishes, fresh and sharp, like they’ve just been picked from the hillside. There are Sarma, tender spiced rice wrapped in vine leaves, finished with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon. Then there’s Kabak Çiçeği Dolması, courgette blossoms surrounding a savory filling; İmam Bayıldı – charred aubergines stuffed with slow-cooked onions; Sinkonta, roasted pumpkin with caramelized onions (a recipe will be in my book); and mashed fava beans turned into a creamy spread, topped with pungent capers and fresh dill for a flavor sensation. The list goes on…

Many of these dishes are known as Zeytinyağlılar, or “dishes cooked in olive oil”. It’s an entire category of Turkish cuisine dedicated to cooking plants without animal fat. You see, what I learned on my travels is that vegan cooking isn’t a trend, it’s been part of cultures long before labels got involved. Zeytinyağlılar were never meant to be vegan, but instead they stem from a time of necessity, when animal products were simply not affordable, while olive oil and vegetables were abundant.

A simple yet delicious way to explore these flavors at home is Zeytinyağlı Pırasa.

Zeytinyağlı Pırasa (Turkish braised leeks & carrots)

It’s a dish so simple, you’ll wonder where exactly the flavor comes from. Be prepared to be amazed. The leeks and carrots braise over gentle heat until they’re practically melting, the lemon juice adds a burst of tanginess and the dill delivers that finishing touch of herbal intrigue that ties it all together. The result is an incredibly satisfying way to cook two humble vegetables that have been taken for granted for far too long.

Zeytinyağlılar are traditionally served at room temperature or even cold. It’s the kind of dish you can cook ahead of time and serve whenever you’re ready. Although there’s a bit of rice in the recipe, it’s added mostly for texture. The starches of the rice help emulsify the olive oil and cooking liquid, giving it a creamy mouthfeel. But this kind of dish is meant to be served alongside others for a complete meal. As such, it’s a wonderful side and great if paired with slow-cooked beans like Kuru Fasulye, some flatbread, or even more rice, if you fancy.

How I Like to Cook Lentils: A Step-by-Step Guide

Lentils are the backbone of my kitchen. Not a week goes by, often not a day, without cooking, eating or at least planning a recipe with these precious legumes. Right now, I’m obsessed with Hodmedod’s lentils. Knowing they’re grown close to where I live, contributing to a cycle of good, makes each bite more wholesome. Somewhat unorthodoxly, they end up in dishes like a weekly Pasta alla Norma. Swapping half the spaghetti for lentils adds fibres and protein, without sacrificing the joy of twirling my fork.

I could probably fill a whole cookbook with ways to use them, but for now, let me share my go-to method of cooking lentils from scratch with a quick, powerful burst of flavor. Consider it my emergency lentil recipe, perfect for when my fridge is nearly empty or when I’m wandering the kitchen, unsure of what to cook. It’s fast, hearty, scrumptious and never disappoints.

Type of Lentils

As mentioned above, I love using Hodmedod’s, especially their Olive Green Lentils. Unlike most green lentils, they hold their shape once tender. In most cases, brown or puy lentils would be a good alternative. Some lentils, like red lentils or standard green lentils, will fall apart in the pan once cooked, giving an unpleasant texture for this kind of dish. But did you know that there are more than 3,000 known types of lentils in the world? Choose one you’ve enjoyed cooking with before, or treat this recipe as an opportunity to experiment with a variety you're curious about.

Make it Your Own

The fun thing about these harissa lentils is how incredibly versatile they are. Think of this as a solid base recipe for delicious lentils, and then add whatever you like. For example, dice some carrots and celery and sauté them with the onions, like a classic Italian soffritto. Or throw in a handful of fresh herbs toward the end. For more filling combinations, pair them with roasted squash or sweet potatoes. Or, something I usually do every time–add some dark leafy greens, because we all know we need to eat more of those. Just chop them up and stir them in after adding the lentils to the pan.

When to Season

The key to cooking lentils to perfection is to simmer them until tender and only then season them with salt. In this recipe, they’re cooked separately first, then combined with a harissa and tomato-based sauce. The salt and acidity (from the tomato paste) slow down the cooking process, so the lentils should be nearly done before going into the pan. By finishing them this way, they have time to absorb all the flavors without overcooking.

Soaking

Another point worth noting is soaking. Like all legumes, lentils contain natural compounds that can be hard to digest. Cooking breaks these down, making them lighter on the stomach. Lentils have fewer of these compounds than beans and usually don’t need soaking, but soaking them overnight helps remove many of them, making the lentils easier to digest and cook faster. Another bonus is that you can use the nutrient-rich cooking liquid without any second thoughts–a surefire way to add extra flavour as well as a creamier texture, thanks to the natural starches in the legumes. If you're short on time, a quick 10-minute soak in boiling water from the kettle works too. Just drain and use them afterwards as described in the recipe.

Batch-Cooking

Finally, this is one of my favorite ways to batch cook. You can freeze the finished dish or cook the lentils ahead for the entire week. Now, let’s dive into the recipe.

Serves 4 (if served with bread)

Active time: 30 min

Total time: 40 min

Ingredients

• 320g lentils (brown or puy lentils work well)

• 4 tbsp extra virgin olive oil (plus extra to finish)

• 1 large onion (200g)

• 3 large garlic cloves

• 1 tbsp harissa (25g)

• 2 tbsp tomato paste (50g)

• 3/4 tbsp salt (10g)

• 200g cavolo nero (or dark greens of your choice), optional

• 1 tbsp lemon juice

• Sourdough bread (to serve)

Method

1. Soak the lentils in at least 1l of water overnight.

1. The next day, drain and rinse the lentils, then add them to a large saucepan with 650ml of water. Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat and simmer with the lid slightly ajar for 15 minutes, or until just tender.

2. Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in a large frying pan. Peel and finely chop the onion, then sauté in the oil until it begins to turn golden (8-10 minutes). Peel and finely grate the garlic, and cook with the onions for 1 more minute.

1. Then stir in the harissa, tomato paste and salt until they coat the onions evenly.

1. Now add the lentils along with their cooking liquid (if they haven’t finished cooking just yet, remove the frying pan from the heat and add a dash of water, if necessary). If using dark leafy greens, chop them up and add them at this point as well. Return to a boil, then simmer for 5-10 minutes until the lentils are perfectly tender and the liquid has turned into a sauce.

1. Add the lemon juice to the pan and stir it through. Turn off the heat and let it sit for 1-2 minutes, during which the sauce will thicken a little more.

2. Divide into bowls and drizzle with a generous glug of olive oil, then serve with toasted bread.

Storage: Refrigerate leftovers for 4-5 days, or freeze for up to a few months.

Hope you enjoyed this week’s digest. See you next Friday!

Much love,Julius